How to Spot Fake New Balance 550 Sneakers

Last updated: 
Anton K.
Senior Authenticator & Head of Marketing at LegitGrails
White New Balance 550 sneakers with green and grey details, worn with white socks on grass
How to tell real New Balance 550 sneakers from fakes, one detail at a time.
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Authentic New Balance 550 Dad Shoes

As a revived 80s style, a perfect dad shoe, and a celebrity favorite, the New Balance 550s have become a rare find. If you’ve managed to locate a pair, it’s understandable you want to make sure they’re legit.

Below, we’ve put together a guide for how to legit check New Balance 550s so you can step out with confidence.

The Overall Look Method

Real New Balance 550 pairs in green and burgundy next to a fake green and white 550 on its box, for an overall shape comparison

Counterfeit New Balance 550s are slightly diminutive compared to their authentic counterparts. This reduction is not limited to overall size but rather extends to the shoe's proportions, causing a subtle shift in sizing; for instance, an 8.5 might manifest as an 8.

To establish a benchmark, consider comparing the sole of your New Balance 550 with that of an authenticated New Balance sneaker of the correct size. This visual comparison will offer a clearer perspective on the authenticity of the shoe in question.

A shoe authenticator will always look at the overall material quality, the stitching, and the way the shoe is built. Sometimes, the replicas are so bad you don’t even have to consider going further than just a simple look.

The Side ‘N’ Logo Method

Real and fake New Balance 550 side N logo close-ups, comparing the stitching around the N and where it meets the lower overlay

Genuine New Balance 550s have the 'N' logo on the center, leaving a uniform margin on all sides. The dual stitch lines that trace the perimeter of the 'N' don’t make contact with the elements underneath the logo.

If you know how a real pair of New Balance 550s look, it’s easy to spot the difference in the logo. With counterfeit pairs, the 'N' swells disproportionately, asserting its dominance on the side panel.

The stitching curves beneath the verdant detailing on the lower panel, a clear giveaway of inauthenticity. A faux New Balance 550 'N' oftentimes exudes a chunky or inflated appearance, its contours lacking definitive precision.

Now, while visual signals might not reveal all, one aspect you can verify hands-on is the tactile texture of the 'N' logo. Gently pass your fingernail over the 'N,' where you should encounter a delicate ridged sensation akin to the feel of a lenticular print.

The Back ‘NB’ Logo Method

Real burgundy and fake green New Balance 550 heels from behind, comparing the size and position of the NB heel logo

The New Balance 550 features the iconic 'NB' logo on its heel. This 'NB' is perfectly centered on authentic pieces, circled by a big white space. On the other hand, imitations frequently miss the mark, positioning the heel logo at an elevated stance.

Interestingly enough, even for authentic pieces, the size of these letters varies, notably influenced by color. Take, for instance, the red and white New Balance 550s, where the 'NB' logo is larger compared to its counterpart in the green and white rendition.

For similar issues, check out the Alexander McQueen Oversized Sneakers guide.

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The Perforation Panel Method

Real and fake green New Balance 550 side panels, comparing the size and spacing of the perforation holes

The stitching encircling the 'N' logos on the side panel should meld with the panel itself. As demonstrated in our replica example, an additional shading effect disrupts the unity.

You should also look at the perforations on your new New Balance 550s. A quick scan reveals that authentic pairs have a deliberate spacing between perforations. You should focus on the initial row beneath the '550' print to spot the difference.

Here, the presence of precisely four visible perforations confirms authenticity. Yet, in contrast, our illustrative replica flaunts six conspicuous perforations beneath the '550' print.

The Stitching Method

Real and fake New Balance 550 suede toe overlays, with arrows on the double stitching along the suede edge

A prevalent flaw often encountered in the replica New Balance 550s revolves around the stitching spacing. These sneakers have panels adjoined by a pair of parallel stitch lines. A key pointer to unmasking counterfeit New Balance 550s is detecting excessive proximity between these stitches.

Instead of the desired outcome of pristine, uniform lines, the stitching might display unfortunate intersections, curvatures, or even signs of correction, such as evident re-stitching.

For similar issues, check out our Nike Dunk Low guide.

The Toe Box Suede Method

Real and fake New Balance 550 side views with a line from the 550 print down to the toe box suede, comparing where the suede ends

A defining hallmark of the New Balance 550 is its suave suede patch on the toe box. The authentic pair is equipped with a cool-tone light gray suede. In contrast, most replicas lean towards warmer shades, often embracing a yellowish undertone for the toe box.

Besides the coloring, you should also look at the positioning.

As observed on the exterior edge of the shoe, the patch should end just as the '550' print begins. The image above encapsulates an instance of replication—note the toe patch's deviation from the prescribed brand proportions.

The Bottom Sole Method

The authentic lower sole has detailed white trims with qualitative lettering: "new balance" and "non-marking sole."

A glaring indicator of falsity emerges when the phrase "non-marking sole" is miswritten as "non-making sole." Additionally, certain replicas might omit the space between "new" and "balance," creating the illusion of "newbalance" rather than the genuine "new balance."

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Frequently Asked Questions

How much do New Balance 550s Cost?

Through New Balance, the 550s retail at $110. Due to high demand, New Balance has been sold out in men’s and women’s sizes for some time. Through other retailers, the New Balance 550s can sell between $110 to $400 depending on size and availability.

Are New Balance 550s worth it?

Authentic New Balances maintain their original structure as a basketball shoe. With a reinforced, breathable sole, ankle support, and a timeless design, anyone looking for the perfect subtle dad shoe would be lucky to get their hands on a pair.

Where can I get my New Balance 550s authenticated?

Now that you’ve read our guide, you might consider getting an extra set of expert eyes on your New Balance 550s. Our team at LegitGrails can legit check your shoes in the shortest amount of time.

Check it out: New Balance Authentication.

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